Showing posts with label German. Show all posts
Showing posts with label German. Show all posts

was wir in Frankfurt taten, part 1

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"what we did in Frankfurt"
I don't know an ounce of German. There are three phrases I know, two of which I forget are German.
1. Gesundheit (or, as Urban Dictionary spells it, gazoontight): a word for health, used when someone sneezes
2. Auf Wiedersehen (or, as I would spell it, Alf Vita-sane): goodbye
3. Danke: thank you
German I learned for our trip:
1. Ein dunkles Bier: a dark beer
2. Ich spreche kein Deutsche: I don't speak German

Number of people that were rude to me because Ich spreche kein Deutsche: 
0
There were many things about our trip to Frankfurt that were absolutely wonderful. Over a few posts, I'll discuss some of them, but there was one that stood out the most. While there, I did not meet one person that was rude or cold to me because I was a foreigner. Now, granted, we were visiting a tourist town, but the kindness started before we even reached the German border.
Somewhere along the French-German border, there is a quiet town called Forbach that goes to sleep at about 8:30 each night. En route to Frankfurt, we had a two hour stop in Forbach, so we went in search of a bar. 
There was one open within walking distance, and there were three people inside. When we walked in, we were overcome by 1990s American music, each song introduced by a heavy-sounding, male German voice. When we got in, the place was starting to get quiet. Shortly after we got our beers & opened our books to kill time, the customers left.
No one else was coming in. The streets were looking pretty dark. I was getting uncomfortable. When was asked, the man said yes, he was closed, what were we in town for? Instead of returning to the train station, he invited us to sit with him while he cleaned up the bar. We talked about not knowing German, about our reasons for being here and about where we could possibly find another place to sit for a few hours. The man gave us directions & wishes for safe travels; we returned to the station.
After our first day in Frankfurt, we wanted a nice bar to sit for dinner beers. I realize that bar-hunting is seeming like a hobby of ours, but after a big lunch, we weren't hungry enough to eat. Who doesn't have room for beer, though?
We found a bar near the Alte Oper, Frankfurt's old opera, to spend some time. The place was packed to the walls. We were kindly offered seats at the bar, and we took up residence for several hours. I was fascinated. The bartender was flying between bottles of champagne, beer taps & mixed drinks without ever spilling a drop. At the same speed, he was mixing cocktails of French-German-English phrases to slid down the bar to customers. Every customer seemed to be a regular; he welcomed us right into the mix.
Between pouring drinks, he'd throw glances our way. If Joe was drinking too slowly, he'd ask why he didn't like the beer. I had finished mine & decided not to order another, so he was always checking in on me via nonverbal, humorous faces that reminded me of special occasions at the bowling alley with Dad, sipping Shirley Temples. 
I ordered a coffee in French; he showed me a mug. "No, the small one," I replied. "Ah, an espresso," he explained–using the same name we would in America for the traditional shot that has become "un cafĂ©" in French. 
"Danke," I said with a laugh. 
"Merci," he replied, then added, "Et l'addition pour les deux sympas" over his shoulder to a coworker when we were readying ourselves for the cold walk back to the hostel.
No matter what language came out of my mouth (because at times, I'm not sure which did), those we were asking help from were quick to adapt–be it at the train station, museums or in our hostel. When I managed a small German phrase, they were kind enough to reply in turn, making it all seem perfectly normal.


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happy new year!

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Cheers to a happy new year!
Joe & I are back from Frankfurt, & we have to say... we love Germany! I ate too much sauerkraut, schnitzel & Nutelle, but we had an amazing time. It was like walking on sidewalks made of gold.

More exciting than our time in Germany was the mail we came home to: a collection of crocheted snowflakes from my grandma like those hanging on my parents' tree each year of my life; handmade cards from my tiny cousins (their first ever!) now hanging on our wall; a care package from Joe's family with a piano-playing Snoopy. Thanks so much to everyone for making our first Christmas incredibly special. Our mailbox fillings mean more to me than I can say.

To bring in the new year, we're eating a tourte (a French sort of shepherd's pie filled with pork in white wine sauce) that required lots of hours marinating, lots of trimming pork shoulders, two kinds of pastry crust, lots of eggs yolks & onions that made me bawl my eyes out. (Added bonus: extra dough = REAL BISCUITS!)

Unfortunately, we've canceled our plans with friends for some needed recovery time from travel before Joe heads back to work & I start getting letters from graduate schools. We're using the nice dinner time & champagne-sipping reflecting on Germany. So what was it like in Frankfurt?

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It was like coming home. As our feet crunched along the icy sidewalks through the 19th century architecture, no longer worrying about stepping in sliding through what the last dog walker left behind, I looked at the buildings, churches and hanging pub signs with a sense of solidarity I'd never felt in France.

My family on both sides, and a good portion of Joe's family, began in Germany. I'll be honest; I'm not quite sure where we're from. I've never had any desire to learn German. As I've mentioned before, I never had any desire to eat a meat that came in any kind of casing. But something changed when we went to Germany.

Maybe it was the beer, which we had more than a good sampling of–lots of dunkels that reminded me of my dad's pint of beer in German Epcot (which I would have hated at the time, as he did, but have come to love). I was excited to try sausages with sauerkraut and brezels (pretzels) and apfelzwein (an apple wine that's a Frankfurt specialty). It felt like my duty, like a part of me; I felt like I was learning about a part of myself I'd never tried to discover.

So we aren't historically from Frankfurt. Maybe not even from the region. But I was suddenly looking for a part of myself. Without this country, the hardships they'd been through, the history it had, my family wouldn't have its history. We wouldn't have come to the states. My family wouldn't have farmed. We wouldn't have ended up in Ohio.

The trip to Germany with its various museums, restaurants, pubs and skylines was more than sight-seeing. It was somehow a trip home, a way of gaining a better understanding of myself. It was a way to connect to my family, think of them and love them, when I couldn't see them for the holidays.

More Germany to come! Now, it's time to celebrate the first new year of our married life. The photos are almost set for online posting. In the mean time, look at our updated Christmas album to see our new friends & how we spent Christmas night.

Don't forget to check out the German edition of Where's Joe's Head?

Do you love German food or have German recipes? We'd love to hear about it and try more German food of our own. If not, what foods from your own heritage do you enjoy?

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